Apparel industry-case-study-I-part-iv
Fabric Sourcing
Fabric sourcing department is largelyengaged in decisive however and wherever its merchandise i.e.
fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have knowledge about all varieties of fabrics in order to execute their functions effectively.
Once the Purchase Order is received by the merchandiser, the fabric sourcing in-charge gets to know the delivery schedule of the raw materials needed to meet the requirements of the production schedule.
Then before seeking the suppliers for material, he studies the specifications of the products that have to be compelled to be ordered.
These specs embrace tolerance limits for all the parameters of the material, construction, esthetics, durability, utility and process performance.
The merchant receives these specs from the customer and hands-over them to the material sourcing department for procural of the materialconsequently.
Fabric sourcer also sources for trims and other specialty fabrics.
Once the fabric sourcer knows what he must get and when it is due, he prepares a list of suppliers (Indian or Foreign) who can furnish the required quality and
quantity, once and wherever requiredat the specified value.
He presents his necessities and specs to the vendors and finalizes the provider on basis of the consistency of material equipped, on-time delivery and competitive costs.
The supplier manufactures the fabric according to the specifications and sends the first lot for approval.
Greige Fabric Suppliers
Lakra Brothers
Super Fine
Kapoor Coats Ltd.
Oswal Fashion Pvt Ltd.
Ruhia Cotex Ltd.
Mercury Knits
Vallabh Yarn
Shakthi Hosiery
Saveena
Agmotex
Dyed Fabric Suppliers
J.L.Knits
Attar Filte
Dhruv Global
Shyamtex
Gem Knits
Knit material is additionally foreignfrom countries like Taiwan, Hong Kong, China and Singapore.
The fabrics department may send the yarn from its store to the fabricators for fabric production (normally in case of yarn dyed fabric), buy greige fabric for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors.
Once the first fabric lot is received, yardages from it are sent to testing lab.
The take a look at report is shipped to the merchant for buyer's approval.
If the buyer gives the approval the bulk is in-housed, otherwise the fabricators are instructed accordingly. As the bulk fabric is received, it is sent for physical inspection in the store itself.
When greige fabric is procured, it needs to be dyed in the same shade as required by the buyer.
Here material sourcer approaches coloring units with its coloringprogram.
First it gets research laboratory Dips of the material within the needed color shade from the coloring unit.
These dyed sample swatches are sent for buyer's approval for nearest match.
Then solely the coloring unit is given a move for coloring the products within the approved shade.
Yardages from dyed or ready goods (bought directly) are sent for lab testing at nominated labs of the buyer for a number of physical and chemical tests as specified by him. The reports and sample fabric from the lot are sent to the buyer who crosschecks them and gives an approval for bulk cutting if he is satisfied with the results.
Correct shade match, GSM, color fastness, washing behavior etc.
are some of the most important properties that are looked for in the fabric. If the fabric does not meet the standards, it may have to be sent for washing or re dyeing. Once the fabric is confirmed for bulk production, and all the lots are in-housed, the fabrics department informs the PPC department.
Fabric supply department includes atrack of all the knowledge regardingthe products out there in its store.
'Order trailing System' put in within thestore keeps their databases updated with the most recent arrival and dispatch of products from the shop.
These databases inform them regarding what proportion material is in-house, how much has been issued, what fabric is available in the store etc.
People from the department confineregular bit with the material and trims vendors for his or her latest offerings.
They visit alternative countries; meet the suppliers and supply out most up up to now styles of materials and trims, which they can offer to their buyers in future.
WORKFLOW IN
FABRICS DEPARTMENT
Receive PO from merchandiser
Prepare a fabric requisition
Raise the requisition to vendors
Source out the goods
Finalize the vendor
Place the order
Lab dips ready at coloring unit in nearest shade
Send lab dips for shade approval by the buyer
First lot in-house
Lab testing
Submit for approval to merchant
Reorder
Approved?
Yes
No
Send goods for dyeing
Receive dyed goods
Submit for buyer's approval for color and quality
Ready for issue
Bulk fabric in-house
Send yardage for internal testing
Approved?
Yes
No
Receive shade approval
Send for redyeing, washing etc
Trims store
Trims store houses all kind of accessories called trims. Trims like sewing thread are used to form stitches in fabric; buttons, laces etc. give the garment a complete look; while labels etc. give important information about the garment. Trim store also keeps stock of the stationary for the company and package material for production.
Unlike fabric, trims are very small in dimension so they need a very careful and systematic storage system in order to prevent time and money loss. Non-availability of trims on time may lead to suspension and delay in production. A well-managed trim store must be able to cater to all the needs of the sampling and production departments.
BASIC WORKFLOW
As per buyer's need the merchandiser makes a trims card in which samples of all the trims that are going to be associated with a particular style are attached. The trims card other than trims contains information like quantity, color, style no, buyer, vendor etc. It also states the size and content of the trims. This trim sheet is handed over to purchase department by the merchandiser. Usually 5% more than required trims are procured as they are subjected to defects, leading to rejection. Wastage of trims is also high.
The purchase department orders the trims of required specification and required quantity as specified in the trims card. The order is placed with either a local vendor or specially imported. The buyer may also nominate the suppliers of the trims. The merchandiser must get any locally procured trim approved by the buyer. Only after his approval is the order is placed.
Trim store receives the ordered trims and stores it. All the trims are in housed much before the production commences because they do not come in specific lots like the fabric. Depending upon the availability with the vendors, trims are sent. Imported trims mostly come from Hong Kong and Singapore.
Checking and approval
Once the trims are in housed a random checking is done. Firstly, the sizes and specifications of the trims are matched with the ones on the trims card. Then samples of each type of trims are checked for quality. The quantity of the trims is also checked. Lab testing (like testing button pull strength, snap fastener testing and thread testing etc.) is also done if specified by the buyer. Then a physical checking of the whole lot takes place where each individual piece is physically checked for defects. Trims that do not meet the acceptance level are rejected and separated from the rest. These rejected pieces are sent back to the vendor for replacement. A checking report is also maintained for imported trims, giving details like style no, buyer, vendor, shortage, rejection and approved quantity etc. This report is sent to merchandiser and the purchase department.
After checking a trims swatch card is prepared. The swatch card carries all the trims for a particular style and information like the buyer, vendor, style no. etc. This swatch card is sent to the merchandiser for approval. Merchandiser checks the trims with the one he ordered and if it complies with his buyer's requirements, he approves it and sends it back to trims store.
The trims are now packed and stored style wise. They are ready to be issued to the production department. Separate racks are allocated to different trims where they are further separated style-wise.
People from the sub units of trim store or the production department approach the trim store as and when they require the trims. Trims store too have information that which style will be produced where and which trims are required when and in how much quantity. The trims are issued against a job card produced to them.
Sampling Section of Trim Store
Trim Store has its own sampling section also where trims are solely stored for sampling department. Merchandiser and designers visits the trim store whenever they are working on a new sample. Anything useful can be issued on an invoice. If the trims required are not available, they file a request with the trim store to procure the required trims of certain specifications in required quantity. Trim store sources the request and makes it available for the merchandiser to help them in sampling process.
TYPES OF TRIMS
Labels and tags: Main label, size label, wash care label, country of origin label, loop label, content label, time label, carton stickers, Unique Price Code tickets, License Hang tags, logo transfer etc.
Buttons and fasteners: Available in different sizes and material, Snap buttons, hooks, rivets, Velcro tape etc.
Sequins, dimonties and beads: Embroidery accessory in variety of shapes and colors
Threads: Sewing and embroidery threads.
Interlining and Fusing material, shoulder pad, paper foam etc
Tape, ribbons, laces: Shoulder tape, neck tape, mobilon tape, twill tape, satin laces, elastic ribbons, braids etc.
Embroidery patches, Transfer prints
Needles, Zippers
Packing Material: Poly bags, hangers, adhesive tape, cartons, tissue paper, kimbles
Stationery like Cad Roll paper, alteration stickers, record books etc.
WORKFLOW IN TRIMS STORE
Receive Trims card from merchandiser
Purchase dep't orders trims and costing done
Receive from vendor
Check for general quality and quantity
Physical checking of individual trims
Swatch card prepared
Sent to merchandiser for buyer's approval
Pack trims style wise as in trims sheet
Issued to production department/sub unit
Approved? Yes
No
Re order
Apparel industry-case-study-I-part-ii
Apparel industry-case-study-I-part-iii
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