Apparel industry
Dr.K.N. Chatterjee
Prof.,& Head of FAE department
Head, Research and Consulting
TIT Bhiwani
Haryana, India.
Fabric Library
The library helps the designers, merchandisers and even the buyers to explore the fabric varieties available with the factory. Newly launched fabrics from the vendors are also displayed here. Whenever a new fabric comes in the store, yardages are procured from it and stored in the library.
They are sent for research lab testing and report are filed for any future reference.
Samples are exhibited on hanger cards or easy piece of cloth cards kept in racks.
The library also displays mood boards for the current season.
About fabrics
Knitted fabrics are made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric (called warp knits), while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric.
Knit fabrics are held along by looping the yarns around one another.
Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric while the courses run crosswise.
Broadly, the knitted fabric can be divided into two structures:
Pointélles are another form of weft knit stitches that resemble lace. Weft knit - It is a type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in a widthwise manner.
Common examples of weft knit ar circular knits and flat knits.
Warp knit- It is a type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner.
Warp knits are generally less elastic than weft knits.
Common samples of warp knit are tricot knits and Raschel knits.
Most of the imported nets and lace fabrics are warp knitted.
Weft knits are further classified into jersey, ribs, interlock and purl knits.
Jersey is the basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knitting is identical.
Rib and interlock fabrics are collectively called double knits because in these fabrics two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated.
A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction.
Rib knits are made on knitting machines that require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other.
Rib knits have a really high degree of elasticity within the crosswise direction.
The interlock fabric is a variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics that are interknitted.
Plain (double knit) interlock sew fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions.
Purl stitches produce knit fabrics that have the same appearance on both sides.
The purl stitch is often used in combination with the jersey and rib stitches to provide a knitted fabric design.
Sweaters, knitted materials for infants and children's wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch.
Jacquard Knits are weft double knit fabric in which a Jacquard type of mechanism is used.
This device on an individual basis controls needles or small groups of needles and allows very complex and highly patterned knits to be created.
Pile Knits like fleece, velour, fur, suede and velvet are a type of knit construction, which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base.
This construction is used within the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings.
While any basic knit stitch could also be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch.
Piqué and waffles are medium-weight fabrics and of double-knit constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.
Types of yarns used in knitted fabrics:
Vegetable source Cotton, PLA (Corn fibre), banana, soyabean
Animal source Wool
Man-made fibres Viscose rayon, acetate rayon, Tencel, modal, nylon, polyester, polynosic, acrylic, spandex etc
A huge number of fabric varieties are available in the fabric library. The list includes:
- Dyed
- Yarn Dyed
- Printed
- Embroidered
- Textured yarn (like slub yarn, mélange yarn)
- Crinkle (using twisted yarn)
- Jacquards
Rib fabric varieties available:
- Dyed
- Yarn-dyed (stripes etc.)
- Printed
- 1 Î1, 2 Î2, 4 Î2 etc.
- Variegated
- Flat-back
- Drop needle
- Thermal waffle
Interlock fabric varieties available:
- Dyed
- Yarn Dyed
- Printed
- Drop needle
- Brushed
- Jacquard
- PU coated
- Interlock mesh bonded
- Yarn Dyed
- Mini waffle (seed stitch, RMB)
Terry, Fleece and Velour varieties available:
- Single side brushed
- Both sides brushed
- Polar
- Microfleece
- Drop-needle fleece
- Interloop fleece
- Structure fleece
- Laminated fleece
- Bonded fleece
- Sherpa
- Boa
- Fur
- High pile suede
- Printed velour
- Velour yarn dyed
- Ribbed velour
- Grindle velour
- Burnt out
- Velvet
Other double jersey fabrics
- Pointless
Indigo
- Double knit jacquards
- Birdseye backing
- Herringbone backing
- Twill backing
- Crepe
- Pique
- Honeycomb Pique
- Popcorn
- Terry
- Quilted
- Jacquard structures (Non mercerized, mercerized, double mercerized)
Speciality fabrics
- Tricot mesh
- Mesh structures
- Printed mesh
- Printed laces
- Net flockings
- Bonded mesh etc.
Fabrics with special finishes like:
- Anti-microbial
- Anti-pilling
- Water repellant
- Oil repellant
- Quick dry
- Moisture absorbent
- Hi-tech cool
- UV protected
- Teflon soil release
- Moisture management
- Semi-dull
- Bonded
- PU Coated
- Enzyme wash
- Bio Wash
these are the Apparel industry processing
Perfume finish
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